How the Prohibition Era shaped Fashion and Architecture
Crif Dog’s is an unassuming hot dog shop located in East Village in New York City. If someone decides to enter this small, unassuming shop, they may not notice anything out of the ordinary — they will just order their hot dog and go. However, some people, if they have the right information, will head straight for the vintage phone booth in the corner of the store, dial the number 1 on the phone, and wait. Soon enough, a secret door will open, leading to a small bar called Please Don’t Tell.
Please Don’t Tell is one of many speakeasies that can still be found across the country, a remnant of the Prohibition Era. Prohibition had an impact on many different areas, but none so much as the fields of fashion and architecture. Prohibition had a significant role in influencing two fields: architecture through speakeasies and Art Deco, and fashion through the Flapper movement, and both of these influences continue to show their impact in modern day.
In order to understand Prohibition and its effects, some historical context is necessary. Although Prohibition officially became an Amendment in 1920, the Prohibition movement started in the early 19th century. Many temperance groups emerged during this time, urging people to curb their drinking habits, believing alcohol to be evil and “ungodly.” The mid-1800s found individual states passing prohibition laws, and after World War I it eventually reached a national level.
On January 16, 1920, the 18th Amendment officially went into effect. The amendment officially stated, “the manufacture, sale, or transportation of intoxicating liquors within, the importation thereof into, or the exportation thereof from the United States and all territory subject to the jurisdiction thereof for beverage purposes is hereby prohibited.” In essence, the sale of alcohol was prohibited. This period of time, lasting until 1933 when the 18th Amendment was officially repealed, brought many new developments in the country, but none as drastic as the architecture and fashion industries.
When Prohibition was in effect, it comes as no surprise that many people were less than enthusiastic about the alcohol ban. Sherwood Anderson’s wife, Elizabeth Prall, sums up the general feeling toward the law: “We all seemed to feel that Prohibition was a personal affront and that we had a moral duty to undermine it” (qtd. in Magill). And undermine they did — it wasn’t long before illegal alcohol consumption became a common thing. One of the more humorous stories:
“One of America’s most famous agents was Izzy Einstein… he came to New Orleans in 1923 as part of a nationwide investigation to learn where drinks were the easiest to find. New Orleans won with a score of 35 seconds. Between the railroad station and his hotel, Izzy asked his taxi driver where drinks were sold. The driver offered to sell him a bottle from under the seat” (Magill).
From this anecdote, it’s easy to see that alcohol was readily available. Although there were many ways to get liquor, the most well-known way was speakeasies — hidden bars that were built behind facades or incorporated into other businesses. During this time, architecture was changed and developed to accommodate these illicit spaces.
There were many different methods to creating these spaces. History Channel writer Suzanne Evans states,
“Many were drab, makeshift saloons in basements or tenements located in shabby parts of town. Some, however, were fine restaurants in their own right, including New York City’s swanky 21 Club, which featured two bars, a dance floor, dining rooms on two levels and underground passageways leading to a secret wine cellar.”
With the desperation to have communal drinking areas, building structures were quickly developed to accommodate speakeasies. Some, like Evans had stated, were precariously built structures and facades, like hastily erected false walls or cleverly concealed basements. However, as Prohibition persisted, more sophisticated speakeasies emerged. Entire underground floors, complex tunnel systems, and more were built to hide these black market businesses.
In a more personal vein, people also incorporated hiding spaces in the architecture of their own homes. Some just wanted to hide the alcohol they bought, using false drawers, hidden cupboards, etc. Others had their own intricate moonshine stills to produce their own alcohol and blocked off entire rooms for the process. Even today, people are finding these secret spots in old, historical homes.
The unique architecture of speakeasies continues to find its way into modern architecture. The Plan Collection’s Director of Architecture Tim Bakke remarks,
“The 1920s was a wonderful time for architecture… We’re seeing a great deal of interest in newer homes built with design elements of this period. And while the newer homes don’t need secret compartments any more, the grand designs of the roaring twenties are timeless, and these are some of the most beautiful homes in our collection” (qtd. in Blacharski).
Even after Prohibition ended, the idea of hidden or secret spaces became a very trendy architectural style. Many businesses and commercial buildings explored this concept.
One example is in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Meow Wolf, an immersive, interactive museum, has a room that at first glance looks like a normal kitchen area. However, if a visitor were to walk into the laundry room and open the clothes dryer, they would find a secret tunnel that leads to a whole separate room, which is inspired by Prohibition speakeasies.
Another contemporary instance (that I’ve personally experienced) is the Bodega in Boston, Massachusetts. At first glance, this unassuming building just looks like any other bodega, with cans, wipes, and toilet paper lining the windows. Most people passing by in the street wouldn’t give the store a second glance. But if you were to enter this building, you would find yourself in a dusty looking convenience store — a closer look would show that most of the items have been sitting on the shelves for a long time. Most would assume it is just a very run-down store, but those who know the true purpose of the Bodega will head straight for the vending machine tucked away in the corner. The vending machine then slides away to reveal a hidden room that sells designer clothing, shoes and accessories. The Bodega is directly influenced by speakeasies- the humble façade that hides the true nature of the business from people who are not in the know.
Not only is the concept of secret rooms still a popular architectural tactic, but speakeasies themselves can still be found across the country, even though they are no longer needed. Lucky’s Lounge in Boston, The Green Mill Cocktail Lounge in Chicago, and Please Don’t Tell in New York — all “secret” bars that you can visit that will give the traditional Prohibition experience. The clever and intricate architecture that was developed during the 1920s continues to be implemented in our society today.
While hidden speakeasies were being built across America, another architectural style was sweeping across the nation. In the 1920s, the USA experienced an economic boom. This was due to a few different factors, but a big component was the increase in disposable income in the average household. Because people could no longer spend their money on alcohol, they started to look elsewhere to spend their money, which helped boost consumerism, and soon the economy was booming.
With this new golden age came a refinement of architectural style. The early 1900s favored Art Nouveau, but at the turn of the new decade, Art Deco became the new and improved standard for architecture. Art Deco was characterized by “Pastels and fanciful colors, bold geometric motifs and exotic Eastern ornamentation embellished the nation’s new money style” (Mulcahy). Lines became sharper, materials transitioned from industrial concrete to polished metal or glass, and design explored simple, yet intriguing geometry.
One of the most iconic buildings to come out of this era was the Chrysler Building in New York City. Designed by William Van Alen in the late 1920s, this skyscraper was the height of Art Deco design. Dr. Paul A. Ranogajec remarks, “With its sky-piercing spire, its sleek, metallic ornament poking out over the streetscape, and its luxurious marble- and metal-lined interiors, the Chrysler Building epitomizes its time: an era of concentrated wealth, industrial power, and large-scale city building.”
The Chrysler Building did indeed epitomize the era. The white walls juxtaposed with the black windows created striking contrast as they line the building. When one gets closer, they can see the geometric patterns set into the brickwork themselves- a subtle but impactful addition. Another famous part of the building are the eagle heads that stick perpendicular to the building. True to Art Deco style, the eagle heads are made of shiny, reflective polished metal, and the sculptures feature sharp yet simplistic lines. These eagle heads are one of the most iconic and easily recognizable parts of the building
However, there is one feature of the Chrysler Building that is even more well-known than the sculptures. The top of the skyscraper rises gradually into the sky, with seven separate “layers” before it finally tapers off into a point. These layers have gradual, sloping curves, which are offset by the sharp, triangular windows that point straight up to the sky. At night, this building lights up, becoming a lavish beacon that is easily picked out of the New York skyline. Ranogajec states, “Although the ground-level experience is often described as lackluster, the building’s contribution to the skyline is its true achievement. It made the Chrysler Building a symbol of urban modernity, of New York’s business dynamism, and of the vibrant nightlife of the world’s newest metropolis.”
Even today, the Chrysler Building is considered an amazing feat of architecture. In fact, some of the most well-known buildings in New York City today — the Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center — were built during Prohibition using the Art Deco style. Looking at more modern buildings, it is easy to see the influence of Art Deco. Many skyscrapers today are made primarily of glass and reflective windows, giving them a polished and reflective look. A simple color palette and geometric feel is also still in style. Art Deco was a timeless style during Prohibition and continues to be an enduring design choice.
While architecture was booming, another influential field began to emerge — fashion. When the 1920s started, women started exploring more of their freedom and independence. This was due to a few things. First, during World War I when the men went off to fight, women stepped up and filled the vacancies in their jobs. When the men came back, most women had to give up these jobs, but that taste of independence was enough for them to start pushing for more. Also, in 1920, the 19th Amendment was passed, giving women the right to vote. This was a huge jump forward in women’s rights, and women began expressing this freedom in different ways.
In terms of Prohibition, women were the loudest supporters of the 18th Amendment. The Woman’s Christian Temperance Union, or WCTU, advocated for prohibition, believing that it was the root of most problems they faced on a daily basis. Sociology Professor David J. Hanson states, “The WCTU was organized by women who were concerned about the destructive power of alcohol and the problems it was causing their families and society” (qtd. in Hanson). Many of these women saw or experienced firsthand the correlation of drinking to domestic abuse and sought to put an end to it.
It wasn’t long before the WCTU was a nationwide organization and continued to encourage abstinence until Prohibition started on a national level. Once they achieved their goal and domestic violence and alcohol-related crime began to decrease, women gained a lot more autonomy, and started to learn how to express their independence.
With this newfound sense of freedom and self-expression, paired with the booming economy and disposable income, marketing companies started heavily advertising to women for the first time. Fashion in particular geared its advertisements toward women: “During this period, youth and beauty became a commodity that was valued. For the first time women were being marketed to in high volume, which boosted the sales of cosmetics and perfumes. Americans had more expendable income, so they were able to purchase more consumer goods” (“Prohibition Sparked a Women’s Fashion Revolution”). The fashion industry capitalized on the rapidly improving economy and the newfound interest in appearance, and soon became one of the major ways women expressed themselves.
And so, the era of Flappers began. “Flappers” was a nickname given to fashionable, forward-thinking women, and had very distinct characteristics that were defined by this decade. A Flapper magazine described them best: “Short skirts. Rolled socks. Bobbed hair. Powder and rouge. No corsets. One-piece bathing suits. No chaperons. Attractive clothes. The inalienable right to make dates. Good times. . .” (qtd. in “A Guide to Prohibition Era Clothing & Styles”).
In more detail, women often wore loose, androgynous-looking dresses that stopped just past the knees (much shorter than the Victorian style of the previous generation). They were often very flashy, covered in beads, sequins, or pearls. For shoes, the most common style was a simple pair of Mary Janes, and makeup was used in a much more liberal and eye-catching manner.
Women also often chopped off all their hair into a short, stylish bob — another bold move to express their freedom. They used this cut as a way to equate their femininity to the same level as the opposite gender: “Women had to invade men’s space (the barber) and cut off their hair, which had been a male-imposed determinant of their sexuality” (“Prohibition Sparked a Women’s Fashion Revolution”). By cutting their hair, they were boldly rejecting the gender norms of the time.
These fashion choices continue to have an impact on our society today. In the modern world, it is easy to go to a shoe store and buy a pair of Mary Jane shoes, or a loose-fitting, boxy dress. The 1920s was one of the first times the idea of a slim figure became a popular trend — the flapper dress “looked best” on a skinny woman, and cigarettes were marketed as an appetite suppressant — and this ideal continues today.
Also, the androgynous looks achieved during the Prohibition Era has also carried into today. A famous example of this is Billie Eilish. Her signature style is oversized t-shirts and baggy pants, giving her a boxy, shapeless look — much like the Flappers in the 20’s. And like the Flappers, this fashion choice is made as a way to express her independence and freedom. She is outspoken in her use of clothing to combat the objectification of female bodies. Although it may seem like a stretch, Billie Eilish actually very much embodies the ideals and fashion trends of the 1920s era.
The Prohibition era had a lasting impact on fashion and architecture that continues to influence America even today. People still love to sneak their way into speakeasies, Art Deco skyscrapers continue to be admired, and women continue to explore their freedom and self-expression through their clothing. Although some aspects of these fields may have changed or evolved over the years, their roots in the 1920s continuously show through a century later. As these styles continue to grow and shift, who knows what they will look like another hundred years into the future.
Works Cited
“A Guide to Prohibition Era Clothing & Styles.” theOldTimey.com, The Old Timey, https://theoldtimey.com/prohibition-era-clothing-styles/. Accessed 16 March 2021.
Blacharski, Dan. “1920s Architecture, Speakeasies, and Secret Compartments.” SpotlightingNews, Spotlighting News, 19 December 2017, http://spotlightingnews.com/1920s-architecture-speakeasies-and-secret-compartments/. Accessed 23 March 2021.
Evans, Suzanne. “Prohibition, Speakeasies and Finger Foods.” History Stories, The History Channel, 29 August 2018, https://www.history.com/news/prohibition-speakeasies-and- finger-foods. Accessed 23 March 2021.
Hanson, David J. “Woman’s Christian Temperance Union (WCTU).” Alcohol Problems andSolutions, State University of New York, https://www.alcoholproblemsandsolutions.org/womans-christian-temperance-union-wctu/. Accessed 20 March 2021.
Magill, John. “’The liquor capital of America’ — New Orleans during Prohibition.” The Historic New Orleans Collection, The Historic New Orleans Collection, 8 October 2018,https://www.hnoc.org/publications/first-draft/liquor-capital-america%E2%80%94new-orleans-during-prohibition. Accessed 20 March 2021.
Mulcahy, Cynthia. “The Architectural Styles of the 1920s and 1930s.” Hunker, Hunker,https://www.hunker.com/13400855/the-architectural-styles-of-the-1920s-and-1930s. Accessed 15 March 2021.
“Prohibition Sparked a Women’s Fashion Revolution.” Prohibition: An Interactive History, The Mob Museum, https://prohibition.themobmuseum.org/the-history/how-prohibition-changed-american-culture/prohibition-fashion/#:~:text=Flapper%20fashions%20included%20short%20hair,below%20the%20k nee%20by%201930.. Accessed 16 March 2021.
Ranogajec, Paul A. “Van Alen, The Chrysler Building.” Khan Academy, Khan Academy, https://www.khanacademy.org/humanities/art-1010/architecture-design/ny-skyscrapers-landmarks/a/van-alen-chrysler-building. Accessed 15 March 2021.
